Back in the capital...

Having been away for 4 days last week, Kathmandu is worlds away from the serenity of Lakeside Pokhara. Back in the bustle and non-stop noise of the capital, I have been busying myself with research for my university project, work for Tourism Times, hanging out with new friends, and visiting other sights that Kathmandu has to offer.

One place I had been dying to visit, since learning about the Nepali monarchy and all of their troubles, was the Narayanhiti Royal Palace on the Prithvi Marg near Thamel. The palace was a truly incredible place to visit. The palace itself is remarkably young, having been built only around 40 years ago. The decade of its construction can be identified at every turn, complete with wood panelling and retro furniture. As for size, the building is vast, but the maze of corridors is disorienting and I am unsure of quite how much of the palace we were able to see. Every piece of furniture and decoration are perfectly in place, as though ready to welcome back their owners at any moment. As the palace of the late King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah and his family, the building has seen the horrible (and unsolved) massacre of the royal family that occurred in 2001. Upon leaving the main palace building, the fenced pathways curl around the side of the palace towards a foreboding sign reading 'Location of the Royal Massacre'. I suppose you can't fault the Nepali people for being blunt. Rounding the corner into gardens reveals what seems to be archaeological foundations. However, it becomes immediately apparent that these foundations are all that remains of the dining rooms and quarters that the Royal family were using at the time of the massacre. Ask most Nepalis and they will tell you that the buildings were destroyed and the bodies of the family cremated under very unusual circumstances. For more information, see here. The whole palace and the grounds had a strange aura, as though King Birendra or Queen Aiswarya were going to walk through a door right in front of you. Unfortunately I was not allowed to take photos, but it was an unforgettable visit. 

The beautiful ornamental pond in the Garden of Dreams

I also visited the Garden of Dreams, found to be quite close to the Narayanhiti palace. Of all the places I have been, this is a hidden treasure in the bustle of Kathmandu. The high walls diminish all sounds of traffic and people on the outside, and the lush greenery is so different to the yellowy/orange dusty hue of Kathmandu city that you almost need to take a step back. It is tranquil and beautiful, and refreshing drinks can be enjoyed in the cafes and bars dotted around the edge of the garden. I have now visited twice, and I expect I shall return to the Garden of Dreams before I leave.

Yesterday was an excellent day, as I got the opportunity to meet and interview the remarkable Nepali actor Ujjwal Bhandary. He hosts a talk show called 'Ujju Darling' that is hugely popular in both India and Nepal, hosting the program dressed as a woman - and crossing boundaries previously uncrossed by Nepali television. He was kind enough to let me ask questions about his show, the film industry and his career in general, and he even gave me a signed DVD compilation of 'Ujju Darling' as a gift! He was a really interesting guy, full of inspiring ideas and ready to go out and help to change Nepal for the better.

This lovely interview was followed by dinner at a gorgeous restaurant called Gaia with Abby, her friend Emily, Joanne (who I met in Pokhara) and her friend Valerio. It has got to be one of the craziest meals I have ever spent with a bunch of friends - the waiter was hilarious, and even peeled off all the labels from three different Nepali lager bottles for me to keep, and the general conversation and table-based events were absolutely hilarious. My face was aching from laughter afterwards. Needless to say there was a lot of beer hitting our glasses while this all happened...

Emily, me, Abby, Joanne, and Valerio post-beer.

One thing I MUST mention at this point is my means of transportation to the interview with Ujjwal. It was on the back of scooter, helmetless, through the unpredictable and crazed traffic of Kathmandu. When Bikram announced this, I was not a happy bunny. He only laughed at me and told me to get on the scooter. Terrified I clambered on, and firmly gripped the bar behind me and Bikram's shoulder in front. Strangely, the back streets were the scariest part of the ride. When we zoomed out onto the wide and busy main roads, I was unafraid, and actually quite enjoyed it. The Nepali sunshine was hot on my back, and the wind was in my hair. Mum, if you're reading this - I still have all four limbs, and a head.

The only taint on an otherwise excellent few days was the unfortunate mosquito attack that I fell victim to on Saturday night. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND for anyone to shake their sheets/covers on their beds before sleeping in Nepal, as even though I had a plug-in repellent, all mosquito screens shut, and insect repellent on my legs, I woke up the next day with at least 20 bites on my right leg, and four on my left ankle. It has been a painful couple of days, to say the very least. The little bastards.

So with the latest attack, this puts my mosquito bite count up to some ungodly amount. I shall not be making that mistake again. All bed covers will be vigorously shaken every night until I leave.

Mosquito count: 30 (approx.)