In the beginning...

Upon arriving at Tribhuvan airport in Kathmandu, I was greeted by Bikram and Prakash who welcomed me and drove me through the bustling, traffic choked capital. Eventually we arrived at the house - nicknamed "The Lighthouse" by Bikram due to the lovely large windows that flood the room with Nepali sunshine.
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I was immediately whisked away to a nearby cafe to satisfy my MoMo craving - and  they were exceedingly good. A bit later dinner was served (traditional Nepali dal bhat) and then it was time to crash out after my long journey.
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The next morning was slow and relaxed, with a tasty lunch of fried rice, cooked by Prakash, and followed by a pleasant (if slightly hot) stroll into Thamel - the tourist district of Kathmandu. I have been looking forward to exploring the winding streets of Thamel again, as they are bursting with beautiful jewellery, curios, books, and exquisite Thangkas. These hand-painted wall hangings are so intricate that they cannot simply be acknowledged with a passing glance. From mandala Thangkas to effigies of Hindu gods, they are amazing and beautiful artworks. 
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The golden Swayambhu stupa

The evening promised a trip to Swayambunath - the Monkey Temple that looks out over the densely populated Kathmandu valley. However, the trip had to be postponed due to an almighty pre-monsoon downpour and thunderstorm. Luckily, the next morning was dry and warm, the perfect time to be immersed in the temples and stupas atop Swayambu hill. The monkeys, as usual, provided as much entertainment as the the site and posed for plenty of pictures! This time I can safely say that it was a lot more enjoyable to have driven to the top of the hill, rather than climbing the 365 steps from the base road. This time I could stand triumphant and cool at the top of the stairs, rather than sweaty and hot like the last time.
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A tasty chow mein lunch at the Lighthouse bridged the gap between the morning at Swayambu, and the succeeding afternoon of sightseeing at two more of the city's religious landmarks. First, we visited Pashupatinath - a Hindu cremation temple. Having seen the open-air cremations at the temple on my previous visit, I was unfazed by this very public ritual. However, as a Westerner familiar with very private ceremonies, I could not shake the uneasy feeling of "I really shouldn't be watching this". Pashupatinath is considered one of the holiest sites in the Hindu religion, and the solid-gold roofed temple that stands at the centre is the temple of Vishnu - also know as Pashupati (Lord of Animals). 

Fresh Buddhist prayer flags flying at Bhoudanath

​Jumping from Hinduism to Buddhism, we took a short car ride back into the centre of Kathmandu and visited Bhoudanath - the largest Buddhist stupa in the Kathmandu valley. The golden eyes of Buddha perched on top of a white-washed dome watch in every direction as worshippers and visitors walk clockwise around the stupa. Draped in bold and colourful prayer flags, Bhoudanath is a photographers dream - especially set against an azure sky. Our chosen visit happened to coincide with a flag-hanging day, and it was possible to write your name on a set of prayer flags and have them hung from Bhouda. I did not choose to do this in the end, though part of me is regretting it slightly!
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Hopefully the next few days should hold many more wonders, and (crossed fingers) no extra mosquito bites. I would like to say that I have done well, during these first three days, on the mozzy front, but I think I'm kidding myself.
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Mosquito bite count: 4